Cedar vs. Cypress Mulch: Which One Actually Wins?

Mulch shopping sounds like it should be simple, right? You’re just buying… wood chips. How deep can it get?

Deep. It gets deep.

Because the wrong mulch choice is how you end up re-mulching every year like it’s a seasonal hobby (it’s not), or watering like you’re trying to personally refill the aquifer. Cedar and cypress are both popular for a reason but they behave pretty differently once they’re on the ground doing the unglamorous work of keeping your plants alive.

So let’s talk about which one “wins”… and by “wins,” I mean “makes your life easier and doesn’t annoy you by July.”

The quick personality test (a.k.a. which mulch are you?)

If you want the shortest possible answer before I start rambling:

• Pick cypress if you’re fighting heat + dryness and want maximum moisture retention.
• Pick cedar if you want longevity, less bug drama, and something that stays put better in heavy rain or on slopes.
• Pick neither if you live somewhere fire prone and your summers come with a side of panic. More on that later.

Now let me unpack the “why,” because mulch is one of those yard decisions that seems tiny… until you’re hauling bag #23 and reconsidering every life choice you’ve ever made.

Cypress mulch: the “stop evaporating my water” champion

Cypress mulch usually comes from bald cypress/pond cypress and it tends to be a warm golden brown. It’s also kind of famous for resisting rot and lasting forever.

Here’s the slightly less romantic truth: that legendary durability was largely tied to old growth cypress dense, resin-y wood that today’s mulch isn’t always made from. A lot of what’s on the market now comes from younger, faster grown trees, so it may not have the same superhero lifespan people remember.

But where cypress still absolutely shines is moisture retention.

If your summers are basically a hair dryer pointed at your flower beds, cypress can help your soil hold onto water longer. That’s huge for:

• hot climates
• sandy/fast draining soil
• new plantings that sulk if they dry out for 14 minutes

The trade off: cypress tends to be lighter/smaller chip, so it can wander off during heavy rain, especially on slopes. (Ask me how I know. My old side bed looked like it sneezed mulch into the driveway after every storm.)

Cedar mulch: the “I don’t want to do this again next year” option

Cedar mulch is often made from byproducts (which I love use the leftovers!), and it’s usually that reddish brown color with the very recognizable cedar smell. You either love that scent or you feel like you’ve been trapped in a hamster cage from 1998.

Cedar’s main flex is its natural oils:

• help it resist decay
• make it less inviting to pests like ants/termites/mosquitoes (not magic, but helpful)

And cedar tends to last about 3-5 years when applied correctly, which is basically music to my ears because I enjoy gardening, not “repeating the same chore forever.”

It also typically comes in larger, heavier chips, which means it’s less likely to wash away if you get big rains or you’re mulching anything sloped.

The trade off: cedar mulch price comparisons show it often costs more per bag upfront, and it’s not my first pick if your #1 goal is moisture hoarding.

Okay, but which one is actually “better”?

I think “better” depends on what you’re trying to fix.

Here’s the real world comparison I’d use if we were standing in the garden center aisle pretending we’re not overwhelmed:

Go cedar if…

• You want fewer re-mulch cycles (it usually lasts longer than cypress)
• You’re mulching near the house, patios, or high traffic areas
• You have slopes or lots of rain and don’t want mulch migrating
• You like the idea of a little extra pest deterrence

Go cypress if…

• You want the bed to stay damp longer
• Your soil is sandy and dries out if you blink
• You’ve got acid loving plants and don’t mind a slight nudge that direction
• You’re on a tighter budget per bag and you’re okay freshening it up more often

And yes cypress is often cheaper per bag, but cedar can be cheaper over time if you’re not replacing it as frequently.

The “hidden quirks” nobody mentions until your plants look offended

This is the part where mulch goes from “pretty” to “surprise science project.”

1) Cedar can tie up nitrogen (temporarily)

Fresh wood breaking down can temporarily use up nitrogen in the soil. With cedar, it’s something you might notice as yellowing leaves, especially on hungry plants, within the first couple months.

Not a reason to panic just a reason to be mildly prepared:

• Use aged cedar if you can
• Or toss down compost / a balanced fertilizer that first season if your plants start looking like they’re on a sad diet

2) Cypress can acidify soil

As cypress decomposes, it can make soil more acidic over time.

That’s fabulous for plants like:

• blueberries
• azaleas
• rhododendrons

Less fabulous for plants that prefer neutral-ish soil (think lavender and friends). If you’ve got a very “Mediterranean herbs and vibes” bed, I’d be a little cautious about going all in on cypress for years and years.

3) Cypress is more likely to wash out

Because cypress chips are often smaller and lighter, they can move around in heavy rain. If your beds are sloped, you’ll probably do more touch ups or you’ll want some kind of edging to keep everything corralled.

Where cedar is my personal favorite (and yes, I have opinions)

If you tell me you want to mulch once and forget about it, I’m steering you toward cedar.

Cedar is great for:

• Around foundations (still keep it back more on that below)
• Low maintenance beds where you don’t want to redo it every other year
• Paths / high traffic areas where you’re walking and the mulch gets kicked around
• Rainy climates or spots where runoff is a problem

If your yard gets hammered with storms and your mulch ends up in another zip code, cedar’s heavier chip is a sanity saver.

Where cypress is the smarter pick

Cypress is your friend when the main issue is: everything dries out instantly.

Cypress makes a lot of sense for:

• hot, dry climates (or just brutal summer sun)
• sandy soil
• thirsty beds that you’re constantly babysitting with the hose
• acid loving plant zones

If you’re trying to cut down on watering, cypress can be a genuinely helpful tool not a miracle, but helpful.

Special cases that break the rules (because gardens love chaos)

A few situations when cedar is a bad idea where I’d choose differently, even if cedar or cypress is your default.

Vegetable gardens

I lean cypress here. Cedar contains compounds that can slow seed germination, so if you’re sowing seeds directly, I wouldn’t pile cedar right up next to baby seedlings.

If you do use cedar in the veggie garden, keep it between rows, not hugging the sprouts like an overbearing aunt.

Pollinator gardens

I’d also lean cypress. Cedar’s whole “repel insects” thing can be a downside when you’re actively trying to roll out the welcome mat for beneficial bugs.

Fire prone regions

Skip both. I know mulch is pretty, but it’s still fuel. If wildfire risk is a thing where you live, consider gravel, decomposed granite, or other non-flammable options, especially close to the house.

Mixing them

You can absolutely do a 50/50 mix: cypress for moisture retention + cedar for longevity and staying power. Mix it before you spread it so it looks intentional (and not like you dumped two different bags in a panic which I have never done, obviously).

Mulch application: don’t “volcano” your plants (please, I beg you)

Mulch isn’t hard, but it is very easy to do in the one way plants hate.

Here’s what I do:

• Depth: Aim for 2-3 inches for most beds.
  You can go up to 4 inches if you’re really trying to smother weeds, but don’t get carried away.
• Keep it off stems and trunks: Leave 2-3 inches of space around plant stems and tree trunks.
  Mulch piled against bark traps moisture and invites rot. (This is the famous “mulch volcano,” and it’s as bad as it sounds.)
• Keep it away from the house: Leave 6-12 inches between mulch and your foundation.
  Even if you use cedar, don’t create a cozy bug highway straight to your siding.
• Maintenance: Once or twice a year, rake the top layer a bit so it doesn’t form a compacted crust.

Also: if you put down cedar, don’t exceed about 3 inches it can start shedding water instead of letting it soak in.

Before you buy: my “don’t get ripped off” mulch sniff test

Yes, I sniff mulch. And you should too. It’s one of the few times in life where smelling suspicious wood chips is genuinely helpful.

Smell check

If it smells like vinegar, ammonia, rotten eggs, or anything that makes you recoil walk away. That’s “sour mulch” (gone anaerobic), and it can mess up plants fast. Also skip anything that looks slimy or aggressively moldy.

Read the label

Make sure it actually says cedar or cypress, not “forest blend” or “premium mystery brown.” If sustainability matters to you, look for FSC certification.

Buy in bulk if you need a lot

If you’re buying more than about 10 bags, bulk delivery is often way cheaper per volume and it saves your back, your time, and your will to live.

My final verdict (because you’re making me choose)

If you forced me to pick one for most average yards, I’d usually go cedar mostly because I’m lazy in the healthiest way and I don’t want to re-mulch constantly. Longevity and staying put win me over.

But if you’re in a hot/dry area or you’re constantly watering, cypress can be the better “workhorse” choice for keeping moisture in the soil.

So ask yourself this one question and you’ll be 90% of the way there:

Are you trying to save water… or save effort?

Pick accordingly and then spread it the right way so you’re not out there next month googling “why are my plants mad at me.”