Why Vines Grow Back (And How to Actually Kill Them)

If you’ve ever hacked a vine down, stood back like, “Yes. I am the ruler of this yard,” and then watched it come back two weeks later like a horror movie villain… hi. Same.

Here’s the annoying truth: most vines don’t die because you cut what you can see. They die when you stop the underground part from funding the comeback tour. The roots are basically a pantry full of snacks and emergency supplies, and when you trim the top, the plant goes, “Cool, thanks now I’ll branch into three new problems.”

So let’s talk about why that happens, what people (including me) do that accidentally makes it worse, and the three methods that actually work depending on what kind of vine beast you’re dealing with.

Why cutting vines often makes them grow back faster (rude, but true)

Plants aren’t plotting against you, but it sure feels like it sometimes.

A vine’s growing tip produces a hormone (auxin) that keeps side buds sleepy. When you cut the tip off, you basically remove the “stay asleep” sign. Suddenly a couple dormant buds wake up at once and boom now you’ve got multiple shoots instead of one.

Meanwhile, the roots are underground living their best life on stored energy. Established vines can store a ridiculous amount of fuel in their root system, which means they can keep pushing out new growth for weeks or months after you’ve “handled it.”

Cutting is like mowing grass: you’re removing the hair, not the head. (Charming image. Sorry.)

The three mistakes that make vines bounce back like they pay rent

Before we get into the “do this, not that,” here’s where things usually go sideways:

1) You cut at the wrong time

If you cut in summer, the plant is actively growing and it’s ready to respond with fast regrowth. Mid winter cuts can leave wounds that don’t heal well. The sweet spot is typically late dormancy late winter into early spring (think late Feb to early April depending on where you live), when it’s not fully ramped up yet.

2) You cut too high

Cutting at chest height feels satisfying, but it leaves a whole bunch of stem with dormant buds ready to sprout. And if the base/crown is still in the ground? Congrats, the vine is still very much employed.

3) You cut once and walk away

One cut doesn’t “drain” a mature vine—it just redistributes the energy to new growing points. If you don’t follow up, you’ll usually see serious regrowth within a couple months. Vines love consistency… which is deeply inconvenient for us.

First: get a “fresh start” (aka stop fighting the wrong part)

Before you go full war mode, do this:

1. Trace each vine to where it enters the soil. That spot is the headquarters.
2. Treat each base separately if there are multiple stems/crowns (and there often are).
3. Mark it. A little flag, a rock, a note on your phone—anything. Because the moment you turn around, you’ll forget which “innocent little spot” is actually the vine’s lair. (Ask me how I know.)

Now you’re ready to pick your method.

Three ways to kill vines (choose your fighter)

1) Repeated cutting (only works on baby vines + committed humans)

Cutting can work… but only when the vine is young and you’re stubborn.

This method is for vines that are:

• Young (generally under about 1/2″ thick)
• Not yet running the underground “root savings account”
• Something you can stay on top of without losing your will to live

How to do it:

• Cut as close to the soil line as possible (below visible buds).
• During active growth, cut again every 1-2 weeks.
• Keep going for months. Yes, months. This is a slow grind.

If you skip a few weeks, the vine will take that personally.

I use this method for little volunteer vines that pop up in garden beds—things I can snip while I’m already out there pretending I enjoy weeding.

If your vine is thick, old, or has already laughed at your pruning shears? Move on.

2) Cut and treat (my most reliable “I’m not playing” method)

For established woody vines, cut and treat is the sweet spot: effective, targeted, and you’re not spraying chemicals all over the place.

The idea is simple:

1. You cut the vine near the base.
2. You apply herbicide to the fresh cut, so it gets pulled down into the root system.

Timing matters: apply it while the cut is still fresh—ideally within five minutes. (I know, it sounds dramatic, but it’s one of the biggest “this worked / this didn’t” differences.)

What you need:

• An herbicide labeled for cut stump / brush / woody vine use
• A small brush/dauber (you’re painting, not spraying)
• Gloves and eye protection (please don’t wing this)

How to do it (the non-fussy version):

• Cut the vine 1-2 inches above the soil.
• Paint the cut surface, focusing on the outer ring just under the bark (that’s where the plant “drinks” it in).
• Avoid drift by not spraying—painting is cleaner and safer around nearby plants.

Which product?

• Triclopyr is commonly used for woody, thick barked vines.
• Glyphosate is often used for thinner barked or more herbaceous vines and can be less risky around nearby plants when applied carefully to a cut stump.

After this, the top growth may look worse quickly, but the roots can take 4-6 weeks to fully die off. Try not to dig immediately—disturbing living roots can basically create new little “start points.”

3) Digging out the roots (the “last resort / bring snacks” option)

Sometimes you’ve got a vine that deserves its own documentary. If the base is over 1 inch thick, or it’s resprouted repeatedly even after proper cut and treat, you may be in dig it out territory and need to know how deep vine roots run.

This is especially true for notorious overachievers like wisteria, trumpet vine, bittersweet, kudzu and wild grape runners—the kind of vines that don’t just grow, they commit.

Digging guidelines:

• Aim for 12-18 inches deep
• Go a few feet out from the main stem if you can
• Pull out as much of the root mass as possible
• Sift for chunks—some vines can regrow from small pieces (because of course they can)

It’s sweaty work, but sometimes it’s the only way to stop the cycle.

How to keep it from coming back (because it will try)

Once you’ve cut/treated/dug, don’t just walk away and declare victory. Do this instead:

• Clear a 2 foot ring around the base so new shoots are obvious.
• Add 2-4 inches of mulch, or lay down overlapping cardboard to block light.
• Check weekly in spring and summer. Tiny shoots are easy. Big shoots are a mood.

If new shoots pop up a surprising distance away, you may be dealing with root suckers. Follow them back toward the original vine line if you can and treat the source.

Your future self will thank you for being mildly obsessive for a month.

My simple vine killing checklist (aka: don’t let the vine gaslight you)

If you want the no nonsense version, here it is:

1. Find where the vine enters the ground (the base is the boss).
2. Decide if it’s young enough to exhaust with repeated cutting.
3. If it’s established, do cut and treat—and apply within minutes.
4. If it’s a monster vine, prepare for root removal.
5. Clear the area, mulch/cardboard it, and monitor weekly.

The goal isn’t “cut it and hope.” The goal is “cut it and finish the job.”

And yes—there is deep, weird satisfaction in finally looking at a fence/trellis/tree and seeing it vine free. Like you just won a tiny suburban battle. Which you did.