Wood or Resin Planters? Your Climate Is the Boss (Sorry, Pinterest)

You know that moment when you find the perfect planter… and then two seasons later it’s cracked, warped, or doing that charming thing where it grows a whole new ecosystem of slime? Yeah. Been there.

Here’s the truth I wish someone had shouted at me the first time I got planter happy: your planter material isn’t just a “look.” It’s basically the whole underground world your plant lives in. And if your climate is dramatic (freeze thaw tantrums, swampy humidity, scorching sun), the wrong material can turn “cute container garden” into “why are my roots crying?”

So let’s talk wood vs. resin like actual humans who want plants to live and also don’t want to replace containers every other year.

Why the planter material matters more than you think

When you plant in a container, you’re not just picking something to hold dirt. You’re picking:

• How fast the soil heats up (hello, cooked roots)
• How wet it stays (hello, root rot)
• How it handles winter (hello, cracked pot graveyard)
• How much you’ll have to babysit it (hello, one more “chore” you didn’t ask for)

I always tell people: planters fail in two ways they either fall apart, or they quietly make your plants miserable. Sometimes both, because life is rude like that.

Wood planters: gorgeous, cozy for roots… and a little high maintenance

I love a wood planter. I do. Wood has that warm, “I have my life together and bake bread” vibe (even if the truth is you’re eating cereal over the sink). And functionally, wood is great at one big thing:

Wood insulates roots like a champ

Wood softens temperature swings, so your soil doesn’t go from “nice and cool” to “surface of the sun” in one afternoon. It also “breathes” a bit, which can help if you’re an enthusiastic over waterer (no judgment, I’m basically a plant helicopter parent too).

But wood also has a personality flaw: it rots, and it usually starts at the bottom where water hangs out like it pays rent.

Quick, real world wood options (because not all wood is created equal)

• Pine (budget, but…)
  Untreated, you’re looking at 3-5 years, and maybe 5-8 years if it’s chemically treated. Pine dents easily, attracts pests, and generally behaves like the flimsy folding chair of the planter world.
  That said: pine is fine for “I’m testing this spot” or “I might move in a year and refuse to get emotionally attached.”
• Cedar / redwood (the sweet spot)
  Naturally more rot resistant thanks to their oils. Expect 7-15 years untreated, or 15-20+ years if you seal it regularly.
  This is what I pick when I want something pretty, practical, and not wildly expensive.
• Teak (the fancy one that never dies)
  20-30+ years and it shrugs off rot, pests, and weather like it has a personal trainer and a therapist. It’s pricey upfront, but it’s also the “buy it once and stop thinking about it” option.

If you love the look of wood but hate maintenance: do yourself a favor and consider a plastic liner insert. It keeps soil and constant dampness off the wood (which is the main rot culprit) and buys you a lot more time.

Resin planters: light, tough, low drama… but watch the sun

Resin is basically the friend who’s always on time, never forgets their wallet, and doesn’t require “just one quick coat” of anything. Resin doesn’t rot. It doesn’t attract termites. It doesn’t warp like wood can.

But resin comes with two big caveats: quality varies wildly, and heat can be an issue.

First: not all resin is the same

• Polyurethane resin (the good stuff):
  Typically lasts 12-18 years, handles freeze thaw down to about -40°F, and often has an automotive grade UV coating.
• Polyester resin (cheaper, more fragile in real winter):
  Often cracks below about -10°F, which is… not ideal if your winter has opinions.

Second: resin can heat up fast

Resin doesn’t breathe, and in direct sun it warms quickly. Dark resin planters can push soil temps 10-15°F above the air temperature, which can stress roots especially on tender plants.

If you’re set on resin in a sunny spot:

• choose lighter colors
• give it afternoon shade if possible
• and don’t skimp on drainage holes (because resin holds moisture longer than wood)

The quick and dirty comparison (aka “tell me what to buy already”)

Here’s how I think about it when I’m standing in the garden center, holding a planter like it’s a newborn:

Resin usually wins if you have:

• harsh winters + freeze thaw cycles (it flexes instead of cracking)
• a balcony/roof deck (weight matters, and so does your lower back)
• zero desire to seal anything ever again
• termites or heavy pest pressure

Wood usually wins if you have:

• hot summers and you want better root insulation
• perennials that live in containers long term (root comfort matters)
• a love of natural materials (and you don’t mind a little upkeep)
• a covered porch/patio where wood isn’t getting blasted 24/7

If you’re stuck between the two, decide based on your worst season: deep winter or peak summer. That’s when planter material stops being “aesthetic” and starts being “plant survival gear.”

Pick by climate: what actually works where you live

This is the part people skip because it’s less fun than choosing “cute matte black.” But it’s the part that saves you money and plant heartbreak.

1) Freeze thaw zones (Northeast, Midwest, mountains)

Resin is usually the easiest win. It handles ice expansion better and won’t crack like bargain pots love to do.

If you insist on wood (and I get it wood is pretty):

• seal it well
• and keep it at least 12 inches off frozen ground (feet/risers matter)

Shopping tip for resin in cold climates: look for

• wall thickness around 0.25 inches on medium/large planters
• and at least a 5 year warranty

2) Hot + dry climates (Southwest, high altitude sun)

Sun is brutal out there. Personally, I like teak for longevity in intense sun.

If you do resin, go:

• light colored
• and ideally not in full, reflective, noon to sunset misery

Also: standard cheap plastic gets brittle fast in this kind of sun. It’s like it ages 10 years every summer.

3) Humid + wet climates (Pacific Northwest, Southeast)

Moisture is relentless here. Resin does well because it doesn’t absorb water.

Wood can still work, but you need to be honest with yourself about maintenance. Cedar in wet climates may need sealing every 12 months (vs. 18-24 months in drier areas). And untreated wood + constant dampness is basically an invitation for rot to move in and redecorate.

4) Coastal + salt air

Salt air is sneaky it corrodes, it stains, it just generally chooses chaos.

If you’re near the coast, I’d stick with resin or teak. They hold up best without you having to rinse everything constantly like you’re detailing a car.

Where it sits matters (sometimes more than the material)

I’ve seen the same planter thrive in seasonal porch container setups and fail in another, just because of exposure.

• Rooftops & balconies: resin is a lifesaver because it’s lighter (and moving a 40 lb wood planter is not “fun exercise,” it’s a cry for help).
• Ground level gardens: pick your vibe. Wood blends in beautifully. Resin stays consistent and tidy.
• Covered porches/patios: this is where wood gets easier. Less direct rain and sun = longer life with less fuss.
• Love wood, hate rot? Do the wood planter + plastic liner combo. Best of both worlds.

Care tips that actually make a difference (no martyrdom required)

You don’t need a whole “planter care routine.” You just need to prevent the usual failures.

For wood

• Use a penetrating oil sealant every 12-24 months depending on your climate. (Wetter = more often.)
• If you spot mold, scrape it off and reseal before it settles in like a long term houseguest.
• Once a year, do the low tech check: press a screwdriver into the end grain. Healthy wood resists. If it feels soft and you can sink in about 0.25 inch with no resistance in multiple spots… you’re probably 12-18 months from the planter giving up.

For resin

• Wash with soap and water once a year.
• If it starts fading around year 5 or 6, an automotive UV protectant spray (usually around $8) can keep it looking decent for a couple more years.

For both (the most important thing, honestly)

Drainage. Drainage. Drainage.

• Keep holes clear.
• If your holes clog easily, add about a 0.5 inch gravel layer at the bottom.
• If you’re shopping and can peek at the bottom: aim for roughly one drainage hole per 12 square inches of planter floor area.

Most planter “mystery deaths” are really drainage hole issues wearing a disguise.

So… wood or resin?

Ask yourself two questions (and be brutally honest, because your plants already know the truth):

1) What’s my climate’s biggest threat deep winter or brutal summer?

2) Am I actually going to do maintenance… or am I the kind of person who buys sealant and then loses it in the garage for three years?

If you want low effort, lightweight, weatherproof: go resin, preferably polyurethane if winter is real where you live.

If you want better root insulation, a natural look, and you don’t mind a little upkeep (or you’re willing to use a liner): go wood, and choose cedar/redwood for the practical middle ground or teak if you want a planter that outlives you.

And if you do nothing else after reading this: pick based on your worst season, not your best one. Your plants will thank you quietly, by not dying.