So … short of sending a sample to Texas A&M University’s Plant Disease Diagnostic Lab, how do you know if you have take-all patch? Well, here’s a fairly simple GardenLine diagnostic protocol: If a certain amount of yellowing grass seems to be sort of melting away over time … as if a cancer is slowing spreading throughout the turf … try pulling up a handful of grass from the green-to-yellowing patch. (This doesn’t work on a totally brown areas.) If the roots seem to be locked into the soil, you probably don’t have take-all patch. If your handful lifts up like a cheap toupee … and you get runners and dirt and everything else … you more than likely have take-all patch or take-all root rot.


For take-all patch control, compost cannot look like mulch. Nor should it appear to contain manure chunks, as many composts did back in the day. If you’re doing the top-dressing yourself, the product has to be raked in to the root zone at a depth of 1/3 to ¾ of an inch. If the compost includes chunks of bark or manure, that’s nearly impossible.
And there is more “soil science” behind my recommendation of compost as a take-all patch control. High-quality composts are packed with so many beneficial microbes, fungi and bacteria that they eat up all the bad fungal pathogens that make up take-all patch (and other fungal diseases, for that matter). If you would like to dive deeper into the science read “Warning Signs” and “Mulch Corner,” two pieces written by John Ferguson, the man who introduced us all to the benefits of compost top-dressing, period!
And now we are at a point in the article where I honestly hope someone has asked out loud, “But Randy … do you still recommend liquid fungicides like in earlier editions of this tip?”
Yes and no. Yes if you won’t be doing compost top-dressing. No, if you’ve been treating organically.
If you have been treating with organics or composts, liquid synthetic fungicides won’t know the good bacteria or fungal spores from the bad ones. It just kills them all. And while you can have limited success with them, remember that you’ll be knocking out all of the soil’s ability to repair itself naturally.
If you have taken anything away from this tip sheet, I hope you’ll choose compost top-dressing over synthetic fungicides. But if you don’t intend to do it, or if you couldn’t care less about an organic approach, here is a list of fungicides that are labeled for take-all patch:
PPZ (Propiconizol-based) a.k.a. Banner or Banner Maxx) Heritage Myclobutanil Flutolanil (a.k.a. Pro Star) As for organic fungicides, there are scattered success stories. But there has never been any empirical data that shows they work better than compost top-dressing. Nevertheless, here are some to consider:
Serenade (Bacillus subtilis –but no lawn label), garlic, corn meal, Actinovate.